Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
